Saturday, 30 November 2013

Pattern 03: The Kelly skirt (Megan Nielsen)



I don't have much free time these days so here is just a quick sketch of the Kelly Skirt that I've finished sewing this week. I will hopefully manage to take some photos the coming days. .

Sunday, 24 November 2013

Understitching

My Wiksten Tank is currently on my newly started UFO-pile as I had some troubles with the neckline again and had no time to do some more research to figure out what could be the mistake.

So I started my Kelly Skirt. I followed the instructions closely while sewing my muslin and I definitely should have considered this as my first pattern, because it was really easy to sew. But then again, I learned a ton of interesting techniques while working on the Claudia skirt, so no harm done.

One of those techniques is Understitching. It was not called for in the instructions of the Kelly Skirt, which is the reason, why I didn't do it on the pocket on the right. See how the lining is peeking out from the "inside"? This could have been prevented by understitching the seam-allowance, so I've done it on the pocket on the left. Much better!

It's really easy, so I wanted to show it quickly to other beginners like me, who might not know this yet.

This is what you start with:

You've sewn both front and lining together. The next thing of course is to press the seam open and after that towards the lining.

Then you sew the lining and the seamallowance together, very closely to the fold/previous stitching. I used my sewing machine foot as a guide but it's probably 1/8" away from the seam.



This is what it looks from the right and the wrong side. My dog spontaneously decided he wanted to sit on my lap while I'm sewing which he shows by putting his head in my lap. This surprised my a bit of course and that's why my sewing line became a bit wobbly for some parts. Good thing that it's only visible from the inside.



Then you press the pocket lining to the inside where it belongs and you're done. No visible lining pieces!
(The pattern calls for topstitching in the next step, which was not done yet in this photos.)

I hope that helped!

Thursday, 14 November 2013

The fabrics arrived!



After two weeks my fabrics from a little Studio called Atelier Brunette from France arrived. With a little tote bag from them. That's the nice thing about indie designers. You get beautifully packed packages.I'm not yet sure what I will use the yellow one for, but I thought it was cute and so I ordered it as well.I bought both fabrics without knowing exactly what cotton cambric was, but it's really soft and so far I like it a lot.

The greenish one is not from them, but it arrived today as well. It will be for the pocket lining of my Kelly Skirt.

Saturday, 9 November 2013

Fabricshopping for the weekend



That didn't go so well.

Okay I don't mean the fabrics and wool skeins above. No, I mean the needles that I bought to knit beautiful mittens in purple and yellow on the weekend.

I bought the wrong needle size.

Sometimes I'm really annoyed by myself, especially when something like this happens.

When the fabrics which I mentioned in my earlier post didn't arrive on Saturday I decided to go to the local fabric store to buy some wool to knit mittens and look for a neutral fabric for the Kelly Skirt I was planning as my next pattern. The pattern for the mittens called for a size 1 (US) and I checked before what that meant in European needle sizes. What I thought to remember was: 2-3. So I looked for wool and found those lovely colors above (the colors in the photo are slightly off) and the suggested needlesize was 3-3,5. Great, I thought, I guess I can take needles size 3 with these wool skeins.

The gauge that I knitted is way to big. Because the needle size US 1 is a 2,25 in Germany and the difference between those two seems to be a big deal in the knitting world. So no knitting on the weekend.
I also won't be able to start with my kelly skirt as I didn't find a good lining fabric for the pockets and that's, of course, exactly what the pattern starts with. So no sewing tomorrow either. I'm already experiencing sewing/knitting deprivation (and I just started this hobby!), let's hope it doesn't get worse.;)

Monday, 4 November 2013

Pattern 02: Wiksten Tank - 2 1/2 Muslins


(My boxer-puppy wanted to help me model my muslins apparently.)

The first problem with this pattern was a gaping neckline. And I didn't mean a little bit... it gaped a lot.Unfortunately I didn't take a photo, because I was so annoyed by it, that I immediately tried to fix it and didn't think about documenting it. But I used the solution that Rae told us about on her blog "Made by Rae" and it worked! The rest seemed to be okay so I just went on sewing the whole garment together. Which resulted in Muslin N°1:



The first try wasn't so bad actually. The armseye was a bit to tight for my taste, the neckline was sticking out from the body and there was a bit to much fabric in the back. As I'm not sure how to fix the last point yet, I hope that it will be not such a big problem if the fabric drapes better than this stiff ikea cotton. Fixing the armseye wasn't such a hard thing to do, but I couldn't think of anything how to sew a better neckline. Off I went to google some neckline binding tutorials and I found the one by Jen from Grainline very helpful. She mentioned that she topstitches, clips and grades the neckline seamallowance to get a better result. So I tried that with my next muslin:



Unfortunately that didn't seem to be the reason for my problem. I was still doing something wrong as it was still sticking out a lot, if not even more than before. The armholes and neckline were looking awful so again I was searching the internet for solutions to my problem and I nearly gave up until I found this comment under a tutorial on craftsy: (Source:Craftsy)

I was stretching the bias tape the whole time when I was pinning it to the neckline.
I really hoped that would be the reason so I cut a mini muslin just for the neckline to practise and test out this theory. I was very careful and it seemed to work:



I'm still waiting for my fabric to arrive, which means I might be able to show you the finished tank later this week or next week.